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Honestly, I would knock the thermostat back to a 180. But otherwise I don't see the need for any electric water pump. It will cool down on its own with the hood up. Let the fans run and they will cool the radiator and the front of the engine. An electric water pump will only pump water...

Oh that sucks. I hope you find something obvious and not too terrible as you take it a part

I was going to suggest Dynomax Super turbos as well.

For years, we thought the cars were driving the passenger side tire into the ground with the body roll. But actually it was the opposite.

Well what happens more than the rear steer is it plants the driver side rear tire hard and lifts the passenger rear tire. So that with a spool drives the car hard right. Then you leave with the front wheels turned left in the air. Then when it lands you drive it around to get it back straight.

That’s true but leaf spring cars didn’t suck the passenger tire into the wheelwell like link suspension cars do. Every stock suspension non modified a and g body was hard leaned over with the driver side front wheel in the air

I think it had to do with the natural tendency of the car to try to lift the passenger side rear tire off the ground and then driving the car right and having to steer it back as it moved around. But that was A and G body cars.

This is how I would start. Align it to the parts that cannot move and then work forward.

Congratulations. I found just start it up in the middle of the day maybe during the week when most people are at work and that’s the best you can do. Mine was a 15:1 565 with 4” collectors and no mufflers but I tried my best to not be rude.

I find that happens a lot when building a car. You wire it or plumb it then step back and decide you don’t like the way it looks or you find a different way to do it. I remember when I built my car 30 years ago, I built it with the summit catalog not knowing a lot more stuff was available. I...

That was how I did my 78 back in the early 90’s. Was asking about the other way after getting into the factory f-41 70 ss suspensions. The ones I had in the race car were boxed factory arms before I changed to SSM bars.

No don’t pay attention to the bars. Look at the bottom picture of the a-body arms I listed. That reinforcement plate can be bought separate. Can that plate fit a g-body bar to box it

has anyone ever tried to put the 68-72 a-body supports in the lower bars? These are the bars I used in my 70. I have boxed many G-body arms, but you can buy that lower piece in the A-body arm and weld it in. Just wondered if that insert would fit a g-body arm...

Like was said. You can put the head on first, install the studs with sealant and tighten it down. for a point of reference I would not use studs on any car with fenders unless it was absolutely necessary. I didn’t run head studs on my race engines until the 565 and that was 980 hp and 800...

Glad to see it’s starting to come together. Are you deep staging for your class? That alone could make enough to get the 7 you’re looking for.

I had an issue on my 70 Nova, and it was the trunk spring rods that ran across between the hinges. They were hitting against each other. There was a small piece of rubber hose that was supposed to get between where they touched that had moved. I don't remember if the malibus have the same...

Shocks don't hold the car up so no.

I used Moog parts in my 70. So far so good. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C59YE6/?tag=gbody-20

How did the console fit with the carpet cut like that? I am putting a carpet in my 70 and contemplating cutting around the shifter or removing it and putting the carpet in first. I am almost positive, factory and most resto places put the shifter in first and cut around it. But if it was a...

The other part is hood open or closed as to air restrictions, and how the air moves over the car at speed. I dyno my engine on the stand and then just make sure its not hurting itself in the car. I don't really chase it much in the car. I make sure its rich enough to not go lean in the...