Manual to Power window conversion

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1evilregal

Comic Book Super Hero
Apr 23, 2009
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I'm in the process of converting my old manual regulators over to power, and know of a couple guys on here doing the opposite, and haven't really found a good instructional thread for it. my conversion isn't complete yet, so I'll be adding to tis as it goes, but this pretty much covers the regulator switchover so far.

you should already have your panels off, if not, sorry but my doorpanels have been off for almost 5 years now and my Delorean time machine is out of plutonium...... :wink:

start by removing the window by removing these nuts: back corner

front center

rear glass stop

upper guide pin and guide felts

 

1evilregal

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Apr 23, 2009
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Greensboro, NC
then remove the glass from the door.

remove the 2 bolts for the horizontal slider, just behind the door handle


for the rivets, some guys like to use a chisel to remove the rivet head. myself, I've had pretty good luck using a thin nail or a center punch to pop out the center pin and then using a drill to remove the rest. I've put arrows showing the 4 rivets that hold the regulator to the door. * the rivet that is circled on the right side of the picture is for the front guide felt, and it isn't necessary to remove unless the fuzzie is worn out*


take note that the power regulator doesn't mount up to the same holes that the manual regulator does. the manual regulator is mounted in more of a 12-6 o'clock position (the regulator in the pic is the power, but I realized too late to get a pic of the manual reg)

where the power is more of a 9-3 o'clock position with the motor in the "down" position
 

1evilregal

Comic Book Super Hero
Apr 23, 2009
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Greensboro, NC
you may want to route your wiring in through the leading edge of the door at this time and connect it to the motor before mounting it to the door.( I found out this little step after mounting the regulator and thentrying to connect it for 45 minutes. It helps if you're double-jointed and japaneese, but I'm neither of those, so out it came again... :oops: )

* if you are going from power to manual, make sure to snag the covers that go on the doors ANDthe door jamb, or else you'll have a swimming pool beneath your pedals next time it rains!

here are a couple pics of the power regulators mounted up, along with reference points for the manual reg mount points.
I used 1/4" bolts/nuts/lockwashers with blue loc-tite. some go back with rivets, but with my cheapness and using used parts, more than likely, they'll have to come back out at some point... :roll:



I hope to be tackling the wiring next, and will post pics as well. stay tuned!
 
Nov 4, 2012
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Looks great so far, I'll be tuned in for this. I did pick up two handles from the auto parts stores yesterday, they were easy to find, and like you said, about $6. Quick question, since I already have the wiring, should I just tuck the wires down inside the door, or back through the rubber accordian sleeve, and just pretend they arent there? I really don't want to cut the wires so that's what I'm thinking I should do.
 

1evilregal

Comic Book Super Hero
Apr 23, 2009
3,056
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113
Greensboro, NC
either way would work. if you have a thought of ever going back to power, I'd tuck the wires in the door and secure them down so they don't get in the way of the manual gear, and you won't have to re-route the wires back in.

btw, I did include the covers that go in the doors and jambs with the regulators I sent, just in case
 

J3

Greasemonkey
Jan 1, 2009
134
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East TX
Great thread. Gonna be watching this one.
 

1evilregal

Comic Book Super Hero
Apr 23, 2009
3,056
4,357
113
Greensboro, NC
ran into a little bit of a snag while running the power wires for both sides... my harness doesn't have the power connectors in it, and I can't find a decent enough wiring diagram at the moment to figure out how and what wire runs what, and where and how they connect to the system. looks like I'll be hitting the junkyards next weekend looking for a useable harness/relay pack.
 
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