What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2023]
- Thread starter Wraith
- Start date
Buddy of mine found this on the side of the road near his place, he didn't have the time to mess with it so I ended up with it. It's not locked up, has clean oil and the gas is good still. Deck is rusted so thinking someone bought a new one and put this on the curb where he found it.
I just want the engine for another mower I have so that's tomorrow's project for the day. Clean it up and see how it runs.
I just want the engine for another mower I have so that's tomorrow's project for the day. Clean it up and see how it runs.
I was doing the brakes on one of the Gyps. While waiting for parts, I spotted a torn steering boot. That pissed me off because we had the entire set of tie rods replaced after a crash. Then I discovered that there is no Gyp part number for a boot. If you get an entire rack unit, the boots come with it. But tie rods don't. So for a new boot you are left to the aftermarket. But there is no interchange part number, so you need to hopes it fits. Some had about a hundred cars that their boots 'fit'. I went with a parts guy I used before and the boot was a perfect fit.
You need to separate the tie rods to slip the new boot on. But you don't want to disturb the alignment. I marked the rods with a paint pen, wrapped some tape behind the lock nut, and counted the turns taking it apart. Just for good measure I used a caliper to measure the installed length of the end of the tie rod to the lock nut. It came to 2.600". Then it was pretty easy to undo the rods, remove and replace the boot, then screw it all back together. The final measurement was 2.600" so hopefully the alignment is still spot on.
You need to separate the tie rods to slip the new boot on. But you don't want to disturb the alignment. I marked the rods with a paint pen, wrapped some tape behind the lock nut, and counted the turns taking it apart. Just for good measure I used a caliper to measure the installed length of the end of the tie rod to the lock nut. It came to 2.600". Then it was pretty easy to undo the rods, remove and replace the boot, then screw it all back together. The final measurement was 2.600" so hopefully the alignment is still spot on.
For this a picture might be easier but I am all pictured out for the moment. So, on my vertical floor press, the deck or work surface that supports the work or components to be bent or pushed or compressed is vertically adjustable. The end legs are drilled and accept steel pins on which the deck sits. The issue for me is that this deck is both awkward and fairly heavy to reset for position if I have to work with something long, such as shafts or an axle, and my need is to remove the bearings. The room is there but the deck would have to be dropped almost to the bottom pair of holes and while gravity would accomplish that quite easily, it is the wrestling match of getting it back up off the floor and returned to its normal or default position that causes me pain: (often literally). That deck is just heavy enough as it is and I did add internal ribs at one point, made out of 1-/4" flat plate? to both stiffen it up and tie the long side to side rails into a permanent relationship with each other that the factory assembly botls kind of only skirted at best.
So my feverish mind came up with the idea of adding a winch to it. The winch body sits on a subframe that is welded to the top press frame and will have two cables attached to it that will come and go as a team to raise and lower the movable deck. The deck has had 3/16ths angle brackets added to it that were drilled for 3/8ths eyebolts to which short lengths of chain were attached. The cable picks up the chain at it's centre point on each side and up/down the whole thing goes.
Like I said, pictures would be easier and they will come along once the whole thing is finished.
Nick
I can see what you mean, pics will explain it tho.
I got into the mower I posted above. Tore it down to a long block basically and inspected everything, lots of corrosion so somebody left it outside where it could get rainwater all that crap in it..🙄
Cleaned up what I could and actually got it running, had a surging idle which with these engines that's a bad governor and it's not worth replacing so I cannibalized what I wanted off of it for my other mowers since most of the parts are the same. It had a new blade on it, that went on one of my mowers. Put it on the street side for the community recycling program.
Since I had all the tools out, I took my two other push mowers and tore them down the same way to the long block. Blew them out with air and cleaned them up, sharpened the blades and they are ready to go for this season.
I got into the mower I posted above. Tore it down to a long block basically and inspected everything, lots of corrosion so somebody left it outside where it could get rainwater all that crap in it..🙄
Cleaned up what I could and actually got it running, had a surging idle which with these engines that's a bad governor and it's not worth replacing so I cannibalized what I wanted off of it for my other mowers since most of the parts are the same. It had a new blade on it, that went on one of my mowers. Put it on the street side for the community recycling program.
Since I had all the tools out, I took my two other push mowers and tore them down the same way to the long block. Blew them out with air and cleaned them up, sharpened the blades and they are ready to go for this season.
November to March here, it'll start growing this month.
So that scrap is gone, took under 30 minutes.
Biggest issues Ive ever had with any of these smaller lawnmowers is the damn carbs, even with ethanol free gas. Found out my new honda from Nothern tool doesn't warranty carbs, though it's been better than the B& S carbs sofar . But it's effin rainin in Flka this weekend No mow thee law as you say cut the grass in French.
Playing with the smaller of my 2 drift trikes this weekend ; I call the little silver one shop bike since it stays at work . Just fit the 32lb front wheel that I really didn't wanna do to make it safer on slick dusty warehouse floor at work . Had to chop and extend the frame , widen and shorten forks to fit the new front wheel , so while at it , made new downtubes with spears at bottom to match wheel radius. Also just put on a used built 212 engine supposedly making 20 to 22 hp. It screams like a pissed off tiger , but the fit is horrible for this frame and I only set it up good enough to confirm I'd rather use my 125 dirt bike engine I jjust pulled off the other bike in favor of a 250 twin.. I'll make the motor mounts to bolt to frame slots at bottom and a new gusset plate up top . This is an experimental bike, I'm allowed to change my mind as often as I damn well please to get the results I want.. Very in progress at the moment,, cables not tucked inside frame , etc. Need to plan foot pedal or pull bar for rear brake, gas tank location (fork mount??) etc. Don't want to cover top of frame , as it is a design feature.
Bike in background will need probably 20 plus hours of welding for frame and stainless triple X- pipe exhaust system. It will be able to both drift and wheelie on plastic sleeves.
if ya bored https://www.hondarebelforum.com/threads/drift-trike-250-performance-engine-donor-project.127451/
Playing with the smaller of my 2 drift trikes this weekend ; I call the little silver one shop bike since it stays at work . Just fit the 32lb front wheel that I really didn't wanna do to make it safer on slick dusty warehouse floor at work . Had to chop and extend the frame , widen and shorten forks to fit the new front wheel , so while at it , made new downtubes with spears at bottom to match wheel radius. Also just put on a used built 212 engine supposedly making 20 to 22 hp. It screams like a pissed off tiger , but the fit is horrible for this frame and I only set it up good enough to confirm I'd rather use my 125 dirt bike engine I jjust pulled off the other bike in favor of a 250 twin.. I'll make the motor mounts to bolt to frame slots at bottom and a new gusset plate up top . This is an experimental bike, I'm allowed to change my mind as often as I damn well please to get the results I want.. Very in progress at the moment,, cables not tucked inside frame , etc. Need to plan foot pedal or pull bar for rear brake, gas tank location (fork mount??) etc. Don't want to cover top of frame , as it is a design feature.
Bike in background will need probably 20 plus hours of welding for frame and stainless triple X- pipe exhaust system. It will be able to both drift and wheelie on plastic sleeves.
if ya bored https://www.hondarebelforum.com/threads/drift-trike-250-performance-engine-donor-project.127451/
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