Like I said, its time. I just don't have room and stuff has to go.
TL;DR asking $8000 or $7500 without the Hurst wheels, OBO. Located in Rolla MO. I can "deliver" to SW Wisconsin or NE Oklahoma for a little extra. Clean OK title.
You've seen this car on the site before, although its been a while. I drove this car from Oklahoma to Ohio for the 2019 G-Body Classic and had almost zero trouble. Link is in my signature I think.
(NEW* is starred bc the parts are like 5 years old, but have very little use on them.)
Plain Jane 307 4Bbl, 200-4R Combo, Column shift. Power Windows, manual locks, NO trunk release. NO cruise, NO delay wipers.
The good:
The bad:
If I had the time, space, time, and money I'd swap the rear-end out for a 3.x series posi, put in a 350 or 403, and have some fun. And eventually, get the thing painted. Someone else needs to finish the job.
TL;DR asking $8000 or $7500 without the Hurst wheels, OBO. Located in Rolla MO. I can "deliver" to SW Wisconsin or NE Oklahoma for a little extra. Clean OK title.
You've seen this car on the site before, although its been a while. I drove this car from Oklahoma to Ohio for the 2019 G-Body Classic and had almost zero trouble. Link is in my signature I think.
(NEW* is starred bc the parts are like 5 years old, but have very little use on them.)
Plain Jane 307 4Bbl, 200-4R Combo, Column shift. Power Windows, manual locks, NO trunk release. NO cruise, NO delay wipers.
The good:
- RUST FREE. Seriously if there's rust on this car, I can't find it.
- True under 100k car. Someplace I have the notes from the previous owner, but I've moved and can't find them. Pretty sure they're on the site in another thread.
- 17"x8" Black/Silver Hurst "Dazzlers" with Firestone "Wide Oval" 235/45R17's. Directional tread, less than 5k miles. pic of tread included.
- NEW* steering linkage: tie rods inner/outer, center link, idler arm. (not pitman arm)
- NEW* upper and lower ball joints.
- UMI 2" Spring and Shock lowering kit.
- 1980-81 Calais steering wheel. The padding is in good shape, just covered to keep it that way.
- NEW* Poly front end bushings. They do squeak a bit at times despite me greasing the %@ out of them.
- Front and rear sway bars. New poly bushings up front. I don't recall the exact size of the front, but I want to say its the "big" one.
- NEW* Magnaflow 23427 High Flow Catalytic Converter.
- NEW* Cat back Walker 442 dual exhaust. Minus the hangers though, see below. Sounds nice. I'll post a video later.
- Pioneer 1.5 DIN CD stereo with aux/headphone cable. Sounds great.
- Comes with all four original Olds rally wheels (also light blue) with pretty decent tires and the compact spare. I'll get some pics of those as well. Pretty sure they're just 14x6s.
- Added the gauge package, I'll include the original sweep gauge along with the photo of both when I did the swap. Although I think its still in OK(!)
- Comes with a NEW* AC Delco Distributor cap and coil still in the box.
- NEW* High Amp Alternator.
- AC blows cold and the vents all work properly.
- LED lights inside and out, LED flashers. Only caveat is they were cheap Chinese LED's, some of them I don't think work anymore or are intermittent, and at night the inside turn signal indicators stay lit bc of how the circuit works.
- I've done a trans fluid/filter change and replaced the 4th gear pressure switch.
The bad:
- Paint is shot. I mean toast. I've tried to work it out with rubbing compound in places (and you can tell) but I don't have that kind of time, patience, or talent. The hood looks like it was re-painted at some point or the paint is so thick, its all "gatored" out and cracked up on one side. It's just faded and well, bad.
- Aftermarket vinyl top. I mean it looks OK and is in decent shape, but if you're gonna paint it, it probably needs to go. I don't see any evidence of rust and it feels solid, but you never know until its off.
- Minor interior stuff. The passenger side AC vents have the adjusters missing, the headliner is starting to sag, and it's just worn. It's NOT all faded, chalky, and gross though. Dash is original and NOT cracked up or covered.
- The very high 2.x open rear. The car is a great cruiser, but do not expect any burnouts or quick launches. It just laughs. It feels like it wants to, but yeah.
- Minor body stuff, drivers rear where there had been a blowout and bent up the trim, scuffed a bit. There's a very slight dent in the passenger front fender, I've tried to photo it but I can't get the right angle to actually show it. I've used my PDR kit to pull it out as best I can, I might try to work on it some more.
- The fuel and volt gauges I'm pretty sure have contact issues with the circuit board, or the "board" (that stupid floppy thing) has resistance where it shouldn't be. If I get some time I'll try to fix that. They read "low" ... its a common thing IIRC. I'll remove this line if/when I fix it.
- The exhaust is hung up in a pretty haphazard way since I never acquired a set of OEM hangers. The only issue I had with the Ohio trip was it came loose on the way back, and its held up with some plumbing strap. I will be trying to fix that properly. Same for this line.
- There's a minor valve cover gasket oil leak but that's kinda expected, yeah? Olds FTW.
If I had the time, space, time, and money I'd swap the rear-end out for a 3.x series posi, put in a 350 or 403, and have some fun. And eventually, get the thing painted. Someone else needs to finish the job.
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