I don't find it particulary hard. Once you remove the vents/plates on the center of the dash and the LH side around the light switch, you have access to all the little bolts to take the surround off.
Then, you should have little bolts you can access to remove the clear cover if you just want to get inside the unit. If removing the entire unit just to access bulbs, you can leave the cover on. You don't need to worry about it, but if you had a column shift with dash indicator, you'd have to remove the indicator clip on the bottom rotating column cover as well. This would require the ball-sack vent under the steering column to be removed to access it.
Don't yank it out, but you should be able to carefully pull the cluster out far enough to reach behind the cluster and there's a spring clip on the speedo cable connection that needs pressing in at the tab. IIRC, it's a tab facing UP so it should be able to be reached from the top rear of the cluster. The cable should slide right off. If it's not long enough to be able to get your hand back there, you can look around near the brake booster area and see if the cable still is held on by a bracket. If so, remove the bracket so you can get more slack with the cable. There's a lot of crap in the way to try and reach it from underneath the dash. Never tried but it looked pretty mucked up in there.
Once the cable is off, you still can't just yank the cluster off. There's a VSS wiring harness that's got a small bolt holding the VSS sensor to the back of the speedometer. This thing is important because it's how the computer "sees" your MPH. Remove bolt and the VSS sensor should be off. Don't forget to put this back on during installation or you'll get a check engine light due to no/low VSS.
There's at least a dozen bulbs in one form or another back there as well, IIRC. I think, but not 100% sure, there's 6 or so lighting lamps. Others are indicator lamps for whatever it is they're indicatiing, like high beams, warning lights, etc.
