Battery? Alternator? Multimeter? Help!!
- Thread starter 80ELCAMINOFLAKE
- Start date
- Status
80ELCAMINOFLAKE said:Do i connect the brown and green together and then to the "L" on alt??im sick!!
No, don't connect them together. Does your oil pressure warning light still work, or has it been disconnected? If not, then the test is useless. Tapping off the oil pressure warning light wire is basically for test purposes only.
Do you have an old CS alternator plug you can use for testing? If so, connect a wire off of the oil pressure light plug to the "L" or brown lead on the alternator plug.
Like I said, my brown "L" wire from the warning light had no continuity, so I ran a new wire to a switched +12 volt connection on the fuse panel. I used a 68 ohm 2 watt resistor inline on the replacement wire. Painless uses an 82 ohm 2 watt resistor for their adapter plug.
Let me look back on the old CS alternator thread. I remember Pat with the red Malibu also had the same problem with his charging system.
I think he also ended using the same remedy. I'll find it and post it for you.
This was quoted by Patmckinneyracing.
Well guys I figured out the problem.
Tried a number of things, including buying the adapter pigtail with the resistors built in to resolve the issue. That didn't work and still would not charge the system. So I went cruising through google researching people having similar issues on the hot rodding websites. Found one website where it showed that the point of the second wire (not the red one that goes to the post) was to tell the internal regulator when to turn on or when the car is running. For whatever reason, my brown wire that goes to the idiot light is no longer working. That "GEN" light worked before the car went down, but I did go through the harness and may have snipped it by accident.
So with the pigtail adapter, all you have to do is run the second wire to an ignition power source. That way when you turn the key, the regulator kicks on.
========================================================================================================
*Assuming the brown GEN. light lead is bad. He used a switched power source and ran a replacement wire, connected it to the resistor.
A switched power source is a +12 volt connection that's hot when the key is turned on.
Well guys I figured out the problem.
Tried a number of things, including buying the adapter pigtail with the resistors built in to resolve the issue. That didn't work and still would not charge the system. So I went cruising through google researching people having similar issues on the hot rodding websites. Found one website where it showed that the point of the second wire (not the red one that goes to the post) was to tell the internal regulator when to turn on or when the car is running. For whatever reason, my brown wire that goes to the idiot light is no longer working. That "GEN" light worked before the car went down, but I did go through the harness and may have snipped it by accident.
So with the pigtail adapter, all you have to do is run the second wire to an ignition power source. That way when you turn the key, the regulator kicks on.
========================================================================================================
*Assuming the brown GEN. light lead is bad. He used a switched power source and ran a replacement wire, connected it to the resistor.
A switched power source is a +12 volt connection that's hot when the key is turned on.
Morning inspection: with a NEW VID: So what i need to know is what can i replace that brown wire to get current through it to tell my alt to charge my battery, i think its the idiot light,.,.
Light to red stock wire:
No light from white/brown stock wire: means?
Heres the vid..
[youtube]vmZKeaqDXvI[/youtube]
What do i do next? hope its simple, member i hate wires lol
Light to red stock wire:
No light from white/brown stock wire: means?
Heres the vid..
[youtube]vmZKeaqDXvI[/youtube]
What do i do next? hope its simple, member i hate wires lol
A quick question. Your showing the plug from the back of the gauge cluster. Is that disconnected, or do you just have it temporarily unplugged to find where the wire is going?
I wish I was there to help you.. But anyway. Get a length of 14-16 ga. wire. Long enough to connect from the fuse box to the alternator plug. Take your test lamp and find a spare terminal that's hot only when the key is turned on. It might be marked accessories, abbreviated. Run the wire thru the firewall...or outside of the car temporarily.
Use a male spade connector, push it on the spare +12 volt terminal. Connect the other end of that wire to the white wire of that plug. Tape it so it doesn't short. Connect that to your EC-82 adapter, and connect that back on the alternator.
Start the engine, and put your meter across the HOT lug in back of the alternator and ground. You should be getting your 14.0-14.5 volts or so. Sometimes it will take a few seconds for the voltage to come up as it's running.
Just make sure that wire is connected to the resistor.
I wish I was there to help you.. But anyway. Get a length of 14-16 ga. wire. Long enough to connect from the fuse box to the alternator plug. Take your test lamp and find a spare terminal that's hot only when the key is turned on. It might be marked accessories, abbreviated. Run the wire thru the firewall...or outside of the car temporarily.
Use a male spade connector, push it on the spare +12 volt terminal. Connect the other end of that wire to the white wire of that plug. Tape it so it doesn't short. Connect that to your EC-82 adapter, and connect that back on the alternator.
Start the engine, and put your meter across the HOT lug in back of the alternator and ground. You should be getting your 14.0-14.5 volts or so. Sometimes it will take a few seconds for the voltage to come up as it's running.
Just make sure that wire is connected to the resistor.
Longroof79 said:
Correct!!! im no longer using that plug coming form the gauge cluster since im all after market gauges..the back of my cluster is all modified to fit my aftermarkert gauges...
ok so this is what im going to do.
1. I have 14-16ga from fuse box to a power souce only when I turn the key.
2. Connect that wire from the fuse box to the white wire on the stock pigtail, replacing the brown wire that i have bad?
3. Plug in our stock pigtail red/white wire to the ES82 connector and then that into the alternator.
4. Start the car with meter conneted to see if im at 14-14.5 volts.
What u mean by this (Just make sure that wire is connected to the resistor) isnt the brown wire that we are replacing like the resistor>? thats why we running a new wire for power/connection to tell the alt to charge>?
Hope i got this type down right..? lol
Yes sir, you got it right...sorry to confuse you. The EC-82 already has the resistor in it. Just follow the steps and give it a whirl.
Why I asked you about the plug behind the gauges. When you disconnected it, you also disconnected the GEN. warning light and oil pressure warning light circuits. Which is why the alternator is not energizing...or charging.
Good luck, bro. Hope there's good news. :wink:
Why I asked you about the plug behind the gauges. When you disconnected it, you also disconnected the GEN. warning light and oil pressure warning light circuits. Which is why the alternator is not energizing...or charging.
Good luck, bro. Hope there's good news. :wink:
Longroof79 said:
Koo!!! Bro u dont know how much i hate wires i cant stress it enough
But u have been very helpful to me, and i hope this helps others...u are the MAN!!! i will try it out tomorrow morning, im woking know..
i will give u an update...thanks again :wink: 
==========================================================================================================80ELCAMINOFLAKE said:Koo!!! Bro u dont know how much i hate wires i cant stress it enough
But u have been very helpful to me, and i hope this helps others...u are the MAN!!! i will try it out tomorrow morning, im woking know..
Good luck, Bro. Let me know how you make out. Sorry this thing has you stressed out.. :?
- Status
Similar threads
