A "Super Dirty Girl" isn't always a bad thing. Just ask Pink Floyd.
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What did you do to your G-Body today 2024
- Thread starter 64nailhead
- Start date
Oh, wait, what were you talking about?
Today.....pretty sure I toasted my transmission. 🤦♂️ Been having some issues with it for a bit..but now reverse is all but gone. Stock 1985 transmission on the stock 3.8 V6 w about 140k on it. 100% my fault. Been running 12" tall rear cylinders on my hydraulics. For last 8 years of having hydros. On more then a couple occasions, have locked the car up too high, causing the drive shaft to jam way to hard and far into the trans. So will grab another trans, but before it goes in...will for sure be putting a slip yoke in. Should have done it long ago. Lol.
For any with knowledge on slips, do I want one with a preload spring or one without, bolted to the output shaft? I have not researched this yet much w my lowrider peers yet.
Thoughts?
For any with knowledge on slips, do I want one with a preload spring or one without, bolted to the output shaft? I have not researched this yet much w my lowrider peers yet.
Thoughts?
Finally got the car out for my first autocross event here in San Diego. Got ten runs on the track and kept dropping times every lap. Overall I am really happy with all of the suspension work I did as the car stayed pretty flat through most corners, still some tuning needed to maximize all of the components. Wife got the shot of the year on the final corner exit before the finish line. Every lap I was lifting the inside front tire on exit when I would bury the throttle yet no sliding from the rear tires!
Have been reworking carb of choice a rochester 4gc...having tried a new edelbrock and deciding it would never throw enough fuel compared to the old rochester .Getting the Rochester to work as desired on my 307 ( chevy) was no picnic either ...having taking first one then a second carb apart a total of like 7 times centering in on jet sizes and testing torque .I hadn't worked on a 4gc since 1983 but knew I could get a better powered motor if I applied what i knew and that's what I did .While many people here are running fuel injection ,I'm going retro and dialing antique tech 60 to 70 year old tech depending on what year 4gc ... to make it short I used .063 primary jets and , .068 secondary jets...these sizes replace 57and 63 stock sizes ( there are many sizes oem) for anyone interested there are no metering rods on a 4gc and they use vacumeter type power valve. I did stretch one link (turn) in the power valve spring to increase its pull in range sooner this Slight stretching equated a lengthening' of power valve spring of aprox 3/16"..and last I set the floats to about 3/16" from the top gasket surface. Things you hear about 4gcs are size of inlets ,height of inlets .( don't mix) inlet needle hangers ,body to throttle gasket mix up's..,secondary auxiliary air valve adjustment/s..I ended up setting the auxiliary valve spring looser ",about were (like)you would set a quadrajet air flap ( valve) for a 305 ect. Aside from the fact these are old carbs, and you certainly need the best one you could get" there are tons of parts on ebay or from a guy called Mike. Anouther thing is I have always plugged off the heat riser passages or these carbs will need an isolator plate under them ( percolation prevention) as far as jet sizes my motors cam has like .044 - .044 lift and like 9-1 headers ect. where in a stock motor say like 283 to 305 ect. you could possibly get by with 57 primary and 62 secondary jets,but when you mod with long tube headers and bigger cams ,smaller head chambers ( 416 heads) ... aside from useing the old familiar 4gc, I would recomend a holley .For now I've managed to get my rochester to take off and accelerate fast and idle cool' ,so it's staying for now ,and of course it has an electric choke heater ! I recomend the leather type accel / primer pump over the blue ones. Also the steel pump circuit check valves( bb) go under the pump squirt jets, and if yours has the pump inlet thats made in the bottom of pump barrel t hen it will likely need a small sized aluminum check valve ( at least its the smaller) kits are on ebay ... thanks have a good one...ps don't use air compressor use the gum out or Berryman" also run a small wire though any idle jets or squirt jets also air bleeds if you can't get the power valve out (for cleaning)leave it in
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do you know what speed that was at? do you have all the usual gbody suspension improvements installed? jounce bars, F41 rear antisway, etc?
My exit speed on that corner would vary between 30-35mph when I would stab the throttle.
The only thing left from the factory for suspension on this car is the front bounce bars and all the mounting locations.
Current set up front:
- umi tubular coil over only arms, all delrin bushings and tall ball joints
- umi sway bar with adjustable end links
- Viking warrior double adjustable coil overs with the speedtech upper mount that makes it a double sheer
- umi bump steer kit
Rear is just umi tubular with roto and delrin bushings no sway bar back there now but will be putting one on soon. Also running the same coil overs in the rear.
I think next event I will up the clicks on compression to slow some more of the body roll
Pulled it out of storage this morning.
Fired right up, ran like an old Olds always does.
TH 200 lost some life blood over the winter, time to freshen up a TH350 I've got waiting in the wings.
Fired right up, ran like an old Olds always does.
TH 200 lost some life blood over the winter, time to freshen up a TH350 I've got waiting in the wings.
lot of other improvements
but none of the underhood braces from fender to firewall? or fender to core support? or the GP bar triangulating the whole front end underneath together with the jounce bars?
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