79 Cutlass Calais Build

[DRIVEN]

Everyone has a different definition of "enough". Personally, I'd be really happy with that. That's a pretty common crate motor and I've driven it. Cruises fine. If you want a little more power for less money there's this one; http://paceperformance.com/i-5146377-gm ... ngine.html . You'll have to buy your own cheap chrome dress-up set. They are pretty much the same engine with different cams and (for some odd reason) the 290hp version has a nodular crankshaft. At this power level cast is more than adequate. The hp is only up 10 but it ads 24lbs torque.

 

[DRIVEN]

Another option would be to but a GM short block, Vortec heads (either with beehive springs or modified for more lift), Lunati Voodoo cam, Dual plane intake like a Performer RPM or Street Dominator, a 750 carb, some headers and build it yourself. That should get you in the 375/375 neighborhood for around $3000. That should be "enough".

 

[1979Calais]

Another option would be to but a GM short block, Vortec heads (either with beehive springs or modified for more lift), Lunati Voodoo cam, Dual plane intake like a Performer RPM or Street Dominator, a 750 carb, some headers and build it yourself. That should get you in the 375/375 neighborhood for around $3000. That should be "enough".

Thanks for your help. I may need some more later. I am going to go this route, brother in law just told me that he really want to help me with the build of my car. He told me that he will help me to build my engine. I am going out there to break it down this Saturday. He has built an engine before, but not a chevy engine.

 

[1979Calais]

How do I find out what to torque the bolts on my front and rear suspension?

 

[DRIVEN]

The car needs to be resting with the full vehicle weight on the wheels. Then tighten everything. No idea what the factory torque specs are -- really not important anyway. Just get them tight. It's more important that the suspension is loaded instead of at full droop so your bushings don't get damaged from being forced into a twisted position. Make sense?

 

[khan0165]

How do I find out what to torque the bolts on my front and rear suspension?

I've been asking myself this question recently as well. I've learned that any time you open up an engine, there is a chance you may get into extensive machine work. At the end of the day, you have to weigh your options based on dollar value.

talk to the machinist and get rough idea of the labour involved in a typical "rebuild" (ie: clean, inspect, crack check, bore/hone). The price for this is very minimal, but there's always a risk that more will be involved.

... weigh those costs against an equivalent crate engine, whether a shortblock or long block.


I can use my engine as an example... I took it apart just to re-ring, re-bearing, and re-gasket. Essentially your basic "refreshen" job. Once I got in, there were issues and the potential for machine work became involved. I've managed to cut some corners and I'll come out relatively cheap in the end,

but, if I had known about this trouble before hand, I could purchased a crate shortblock from summit for a comparable price, thrown on my top end.

 

[1979Calais]

Thanks for the information. I am trying to find the information about the upper and lower a arms and so on.

 

[khan0165]

wow, I must have been high on something...
I was trying to reply to this

Would it be cheaper to buy an engine or just build one myself?

 

[mr evil]

How do I find out what to torque the bolts on my front and rear suspension?

Copied this from another site....and best to tighten loaded,

upper control arm pivot shaft to frame nuts 48
upper control arm pivot shaft to bushing nuts 85
upper balljoint stud to steering knuckle nut 52
lower balljoint stud to steering knuckle nut 70
lower control arm bushing to frqame bolt and nut 65
front shock absorbwer upper satud nut 100in lbs]
front shock absorber to lower control arm bolts20
front stabilizer bar link nut 156 in lbs
front stabilizer bar bracket to frame bolts 24
REAR SUSPENSION
control arm bolts and nuts up[per and lower 80
rear shock absorber to lower mount 65
rear shock absorber to upper mount 144 inlbs
rear stabilizer bar to lower control arm nut 37
steering
steering wheel to steering shaft nut 30
outer tie rod end to steering knuckle nut 30
inner tie rod end to intermediate rod nut 40
tie rod adjuster sleeve clamp nut 15
steering gear to frame bolts 80
pitman arm to steering gear shaft nut 185
idler arm to intermediate rod nut 40
idler arm to frame nuts 60
intermediate shaft pinch bolts upper 46 lower30
wheel lug nuts 80 steel 100 aluminum-just thought I'd throw that in there.
Wheel Hub and Bearing Assembly to Steering Knuckle Bolts 77 ft.lb
Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Castle Nut (Lower) 79 ft.lb
Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Castle Nut (Upper) 61 ft.lb
Ball Joint Nuts (Upper/Lower) (Replacement Joint) 17 ft.lb

 

[1979Calais]

wow, I must have been high on something...
I was trying to reply to this

Would it be cheaper to buy an engine or just build one myself?

Not a problem, I am still trying to see what to do about my engine (money getting low); therefore you still helped me.