Calling me out :lol:JBreu said:
The only thing I come up with right away is just the standard replacement plug for that alternator. Is that what is used :?:
Upgrade to CS style alternator
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The only thing I come up with right away is just the standard replacement plug for that alternator. Is that what is used :?:
Ok, guys, how about this: My firebird bracket car has a volt gauge (no light). Which plug or adapter would I need to make this conversion? This kind of electrical stuff ain't my bag.
The higher output at idle would sure help out while sitting in the staging lanes with my electric fan, water pump, and fuel pump running :wink:
The higher output at idle would sure help out while sitting in the staging lanes with my electric fan, water pump, and fuel pump running :wink:
Ok I edited the original post with the part #'s for the harness adapters. I'm haven't gotten around to figuring out if we need the resistor kind at the moment.
However today I did manage to stop by a yard and grabbed a cs-144 off a 1994 pontiac trans sport w/ 3.8l just be careful as some came with a cs-133 which is fine but its a 105amp and I wanted the 140 amps. Part # was exactly the same as used for the caddy. Paid $47 for it. Now some bad and good luck came into play. I took it to local auto parts store to get it bench tested. Passed the test but then the guy did harness test but messed up the leads leaving some wires on alternator and it sizzked. So I was kinda up that point but they ended up giving me a new cs-144 so I was happy. However the manager wasn't because the employee fried their test machine. It started failing new in box alternators. But I'm happy with the outcome
However today I did manage to stop by a yard and grabbed a cs-144 off a 1994 pontiac trans sport w/ 3.8l just be careful as some came with a cs-133 which is fine but its a 105amp and I wanted the 140 amps. Part # was exactly the same as used for the caddy. Paid $47 for it. Now some bad and good luck came into play. I took it to local auto parts store to get it bench tested. Passed the test but then the guy did harness test but messed up the leads leaving some wires on alternator and it sizzked. So I was kinda up that point but they ended up giving me a new cs-144 so I was happy. However the manager wasn't because the employee fried their test machine. It started failing new in box alternators. But I'm happy with the outcome
That wiring "adapter" just looks like they just hook up the S and L terminals. In that case, you should be able to just use original plug and just splice the wires to those terminals :idea:
RITTER said:
But remember if we need the resistor type harness you will need to.solder in the appropriate ohm resistor on the sense wire
So I guess we need to figure this out :idea: It would definitely be cheaper, about half the price 8)
The wire coming from the alternator to the junction block under the wiper motor, what does this wire connect to :?: It would be best to upgrade this wire to like a 12/10ga wire, right :?:
The wire coming from the alternator to the junction block under the wiper motor, what does this wire connect to :?: It would be best to upgrade this wire to like a 12/10ga wire, right :?:
RITTER said:
not totally sure. i have two wires coming from my alternators plug 1 red and 1 browninsh black. so im guessing the brownish black wire is the one to test resistance in? but dont you have to get to both ends? not completely sure here. and if its got to have power to car to test im out of luck for the time being because my motor is out and the car is in pieces.
with the 144am cs144 i would think the wire to upgrade would be the output to the battery. its the wire that would see the amperage. imo it should get at a minimum 4ga. ill prolly through in some 2 since i have sitting around.
mebe007 said:
if you have an alternator or gen idiot lite you do not need the resistor, the lite itself acts as the resistor....if you have a gauge you need the resistor. If you are still unsure turn the key to the on position and measure the resistance in the L wire, it has to be between 35 and 350 ohm resistance, below 35 it won't work. I have the gauge so I picked up the adapter from Napa that has the resistor in the adapter and installed it is a few seconds and it's working fine since.
S = Heavy gauge wire to the battery supply (loop back to post on back of alternator).
F = not used.
L = Small gauge wire that comes from the idiot light and energizes the alternator.
P = not used.
Well my factory setup is idiot lights no gauges, but I put in my voltmeter. I don't notice any charging lights so I suppose I need the resistor. I'll gave wait to check resistance in wire once I get the rest of the car straight
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